From its earliest days, but particularly since the 1940s with the arrival of Jeanne Toussaint, Cartier's world has been populated with real and fantastic animal figures. Cartier borrowed wild animals from Africa (particularly felines), sacred animals from Ancient Egypt, and foo dogs and other chimeras from China. Cartier designed a dolphin bracelet and brooches with fierce reptiles or charming ladybirds and tortoises. His skies were full of fireflies, butterflies, birds of paradise and kingfishers. Even a famous pink flamingo landed on the favourite brooch of the Duchess of Windsor.
FLAMINGO BROOCH
CARTIER PARIS, SPECIAL ORDER, 1940
Platinum, yellow gold, brilliant-cut diamonds, calibré-cut emeralds, sapphires and rubies, sapphire cabochons, one citrine.
Sold to the Duke of Windsor.
9.65 x 9.59 cm
KINGFISHER
CLIP BROOCH
CARTIER PARIS, 1941
Platinum, yellow gold, brilliant- and single-cut diamonds, two leaf-shaped carved emeralds, weighing 17.66 carats in total, faceted and calibré-cut sapphires, two ruby cabochons
7.84 x 5.40 x 0.78 cm
BIRD BROOCH
CARTIER PARIS, SPECIAL ORDER, 1948
Platinum, white gold, one emerald-cut diamond of 2.76 carats, two square-cut diamonds of 2.35 and 1.29 carats, respectively, 991 baguette-, brilliant- and fancy-cut diamonds weighing 83.89 carats in total.
The exceptional dimension (20.20 cm long, weighing 156.45 g) makes this brooch a unique post-war piece of high jewellery.
Height 20.20 cm
TIGER CLIP BROOCH
CARTIER PARIS, 1957
Yellow gold, single- and brilliant-cut diamonds ranging from fancy intense yellow to near colourless, marquise-shaped emeralds (eyes), fancy-shaped onyx (stripes).
This piece is articulated.
Sold to Barbara Hutton.
Barbara Hutton (1912–1979) was the granddaughter of the founder of the Woolworth’s retail chain, and one of the richest women in the world. On 23 June 1933, she married the Russian prince Alexis Mdivani, the first of her seven husbands. For her wedding, she wore an extraordinary pearl necklace and a diamond-studded tortoiseshell tiara, both made by Cartier. An enthusiast for magnificent jewellery, she became one of the firm’s most loyal clients.
7.00 x 4.50 x 1.50 cm
