At the end of the 19th century, when Art Nouveau was very much in fashion, Louis Cartier preferred to develop his own highly refined version of 18th-century French neo-classicism. His pioneering use of platinum meant that he could design very flexible, almost invisible settings. He created real jewellery lacework that showed every single sparkle of each diamond. These dazzling pieces captivated royal courts around the world. It came to be called the "Garland Style". It laid the foundation of his international reputation.
CARTIER PARIS, SPECIAL ORDER, 1907
Platinum, round old- and rose-cut diamonds, one pear-shaped sapphire, seven cushion-shaped sapphires.
The total weight of the sapphires is approximately 51 carats.
This beautiful brooch is a splendid example of Cartier’s Garland style. It is thoroughly exceptional for a piece of jewellery of this size to have remained completely intact for nearly one hundred years, since transformations and resettings were the inevitable fate of tiaras and corsage ornaments once they went out of fashion.
21.00 x 12.9 cm
CARTIER PARIS, 1910
Platinum, one cushion-shaped diamond, round old-cut diamonds, millegrain setting.
Sold to Elisabeth (1876-1965), Queen of the Belgians.
Height at center 5.5 cm